Italia a Go Go!

Today is pretty much the first time I’ve had since I arrived when it’s hasn’t been going from one place to another and back again. Not that I’m complaining! So, let me just say it’s been amazing! Adventures all along the way and incomparable scenery.
I had a more uncomfortable trip over than I had anticipated as my seat was changed from a window to one in the middle of the middle section so I couldn’t move without bumping one of the two men seated on either side of me in the first place. The the flight itself had three aborted tries, one deplaning (pretty sure that isn't a word) and a delay of over 3 1\2 hours. So, my last leg of the flight turned into a 12 hour flight. I struggled to find a comfortable position and by the time I got out to use the WC in the morning I discovered that my feet and ankles were so swollen I could barely stand on them let alone walk with them. They were worse than they ever got when I was pregnant. It freaked me out a little I admit. I immediately started trying to elevate and rotate my feet. By the time we landed they were slightly better but still tight and sore. My right foot felt like I had sprained the ankle and was weaker than the other. But, no time for dwelling on physical discomforts I had to figure out how to get from the airport to my hotel. I knew it was supposed to be very near the train station so I began my foray into not only Italy, but the Italian language as well. Good times indeed.
I found a shuttle bus and made it easily to the big Milano train station. (See pic) I only had to ask 5 times before I finally stumbled on the hotel Bernina about a block and down a side street away. Not far except for the fact that it was HOT, and I went around the square about 4 times lugging my giant bag and full backpack. So, I was definitely relieved to see the hotel.
The hotel had the smallest elevator I have ever seen. I could barely fit me, my backpack and suitcase into it. If you were in there with another person you would definitely be invading personal space. But, I was just relieved not to have to lug my bag up stairs (as I have had to do more times than I can count since being here, scrambling from train to train – but I get ahead of myself). I spent a little time freshening up, after 24 hours of traveling. And decided to try and rest for a bit because of my ankle, swollen feet and few hours of restless sleep on the plane.
When I got up I decided to explore a bit while I had the luxury of not worrying about my bags. I had seen a pretty cool church on the ride from the airport and thought I might try to walk to it. I first went to the train station to exchange some money. Then I set off for l'Duomo which reminded me of the SLC temple on steroids.(See pic) It was a lot of walking and I saw a lot of little cars that I hadn't seen before. Tons of the cute little Smart cars that we are just starting to get in the US. I had my first gelati, a coconut minature scoop for about $4. Not exaclty a bargain. But, I was hot and it was cold and delicious. Once I made my way back having to ask directions several times on the way I went back over to the train station to check out the procedure for getting a ticket for the next morning. I also bought my first Italian meal (of sorts) from a seller in the terminal. It was a cheese and spinach folded bread thing and really tasty!
The next morning began the "journey" It was supposed to be a 3 1\2 hour trip. It turned into a 12 1\2 hour comdey of errors. All starting with the ticket purchase. As I began to punch in information for the purchase on the "rapid" ticket lline the man (I won't say gentleman and you'll eventually see why) behind me offered to help me because I had had to start over once. He quickly entered the info and the tickets printed out. I grabbed them and headed for the binario (rail) to get on the train. No easy feat with my big backpack and bag.
I settled into the seat and breathed a sigh of relief (probably the last I felt for most of the rest of the day).
I was just getting comfortable reading a bit and decided to examen my tickets. I began to suspect that I had to make a train change and asked the girl sitting across from me. She happened to speak Spanish (thank goodness) and said she thought I may have already missed my first stop and change. I went to look for someone "official" to ask and walked through at least 10 cars before deciding to return never finding anyone. When I got back we asked about and determined that I had missed the change by two stops.
So, I got off the train thinking I could just get back on. Oh no, no, no, no! Fortunately there was a very helpful woman who spoke some English and with much repetition of words, sign language and imploring looks we figured out how to rectify my error. I eventually got back on went to another small town where I had to get off and wait for another train. Meanwhile, I realized that I would be arriving late and would need to let Celiac know. While I was waiting two teens came and sat by me and proceeded to pull out their cells and text (some things are universal apparently). I struck up a fantastic converstion with my excellent Italian skills - yes, that is HEAVY sarcasm there. And Manuel of the dark hair, realized that I spoke some Spanish from the way I was murdering Italian used some of his Spanish to communicate. Once I got across the idea that I would like to borrow his cell he was very gracious and let me use it. I quickly let Cerese know that I had gotten on the wrong train but that all was well and I should be arriving in Belzano about the time she would. I thanked Manuel and we chatted a bit before the train arrived. He was very sweet and helpful.
I then got on the train and anxiously awaited my arrival in Orta where I had been told I would have to catch a bus or get a taxi to get to Belzano. On the train I met Catherine and Tristan from the US and England. They were very helpful and actually got off the train with me in Orta though they had previously been heading elsewhere. Orta has a lovely lake by it and so they decided to get off and take a look. While we were waiting for the train to stop and discussing how to find a bus a short little woman said she could take me to Bolzano in her car. Her name was Maria.
We got off and Tristan put my enormous bag in the trunk of her little car. I snapped a quick pic and then got in the car with Maria. She knew a little English and we were chatting happily about what she did (high school teacher- Italian) and other small pleasantries. As we ascended the hill she asked me what I was going to Bolzano for. To see the Dolomiti I replied. She let go of the steering wheel, grabbed her hair with both hands and shouted "Dolomiti? Dolomiti!!!" Si, I replied rather hesitantly. She pulled over to the side of the road reached into the side door pocket pulled out a map and explained to me that I was approaching Bolzano Nuevorese and the Dolomiti were by Bolzano Bozen.
The Bolzano I needed to go to was on the East side of Italy and I was on the West. I'm pretty sure I looked sick at that point because I know I felt pretty nauseous about then. yeah. Remember that man who "helped" my buy my ticket? Nice guy eh?
Anyway, Maria spent the next two hours helping me figure out train schedules, and logistics. She was awesome! She stayed with me, helped me find a pay phone to make a couple of calls to Celiac,took me to see the lake and local sites of interest while I waited for me first train ( yeah there were a total of four different trains that I would have to take to get to the right Bolzano). Like I said she was awesome.
So, rather than belabor the whole rest of the trip - four different trains, requiring me to get on and off, find the correct track with little or no time between, and also purchasing another ticket in Milan (yes, I had to go BACK to Milan) not to mention last minute track changes requiring me to schlep all my stuff downstairs across tunnels and back upstairs to the correct track. I DID indeed arrive in BolZano Bozen, not to be ever again confused in my mind with Bolzano Nueverese at 11:30pm.
Let me just say I was pretty relieved to see Celiac and Em.

OK. I'm pasting on some pics with a quick explanation. Cause I'm out of time. The first is Celiac and Emily pouring over the maps deciding where to go next, while I relax in the back seat looking at the views.

The next is of Maria Grazia the lady who saved me when I got to the wrong side of the country. The next two are of the first refugio we stayed at Passo Sella.

The last two are from Orvieto. One is the view from the caves where Celiac taught her classes. The other if from the market yesterday. Go to Celiac's blog to see some REALLY good pics.